To make the trim piece for the bottom of our post we’ll be wrapping it with our 1×4’s and 1×6’s.  Cut 2 pieces from each board that measures 14-inches long.

You’ll need to rip your 1×6’s down to the width of your post plus the width of both of your 1×4’s.

 Measure up 18-inches and 32-inches from the bottom of your post and mark around each side with a square.  The are between those marks are where your trim will be placed.

 Decide what sides of your board you want facing out and mark ‘O’.  Rather than buttering the sides of your 1×4 board and the post, I just buttered between my markings on the post really well and put my 1×4 down and moved it back/forth to squeeze glue around.  You’ll be putting your 1×4’s on opposite sides of the post – use your square to make sure the boards are perfectly aligned.  TIP: Align all your boards along the 32″ mark so attaching the trim is easy – the 18″ mark will be against the ground and you won’t see any slight difference on the bottom of your edges.

Tack boards in place with your finish nailer.

 Now you’ll attach the 1×6’s that you ripped down to the other sides.  Butter the post and the ends of the other boards with glue; align and nail just as the others.

 Cut your trim molding for the top by cutting 45-degree angels on your miter saw.  Take your time and get it right the first time.  I cut a 45-degree corner, hold it up to find the next corner and cut it slightly larger than what I want, hold it up and decide how much more to take off.  Keep that trim piece in place because you just customized it to that side.  Work your way around until all 4 sides are complete.  TIP: You may want to mark each piece with what side it goes to in case they fall off.

Butter all the edges of pieces to be glued and set in place.

 Clamp pieces if necessary.  Use your brad nailer to tack in place and use pressure while you nail to ensure the trim is tight against the post.  Wipe off any excess glue with a wet rag to keep sanding to a minimum later on.

Here’s what it should look like.

***END***

….continuing for mailbox post…

 Cut 2 pieces from your 1×6 that are 22-inches long – these will be the sides of your newspaper box.  Trace the newspaper box template on an end of each.  TIP: be strategic with what corner you want to cut off – are there any imperfections?

 From your 2×12 trace the template for the decorative brace.  Make sure you will have enough scrap left over for a 5-3/8″ square for one of your top pieces (set aside)!

 Cut your pieces out.  I clamped both of my 1×6’s together on a table to get the cut the same and save time!

Trim a 45-degree angle off the back end of your 1×6’s.  See below for how you need to mirror the cut on your pieces.

 Round the front edges of your brace with a round-over bit.  TIP: practice on a scrap piece of wood to get the height of your bit just how you want it.

Cut a 4×4-inch block of wood from your 1×6 for the top to go with the other block you should have cut from your 2×12 scrap previously (set aside).

We need only 2 more boards (for now) to start assembling.  You’ll be cutting your 1×4 for the top and bottom pieces of your newspaper box.  Remember all boards are slightly different and measurements aren’t always cut perfectly so I can’t give you an exact measurement for these but what I can say is that your boards should be roughly 18-1/2″ for the top and 14″ for the bottom piece. To understand how the box will be assembled see following pictures – that way you can align things to see what your true lengths should be. 

 Ok – NOW you’re ready!
PS – don’t worry about the dowel rod in this picture – we won’t need it!

 Measure 21-inches down from the top of your post and mark around on each side – this will be where the bottom of your newspaper box will be aligned.  Study your post and find what sides you’d like best for the front and sides, or rather what side you dislike the most and want to hide in the back 🙂

 Line up the bottom edges of your box sides to the lines on post and flush with the post back.  Clamp in place.  TIP: Use a spacer block to elevate the post the same height as the bottom trim.

If you have a pocket hole jig, drill a hole in the center of one of the ends of your bottom piece for the newspaper box.  This is just an extra step I did and it makes me feel good – but totally optional!

 Carefully place box bottom between sides and clamp in place.  If you did a pocket hole, place it on the outside of your box (the brace will cover it).

 Pre-drill and countersink 4 holes on each side piece where sides overlap post.  Use 1-1/2″ screws.  TIP: countersink head of screw enough to accept wood plugs (if staining) or wood filler (if painting).

Pre-drill and countersink 3 holes along the edge of sides for attaching bottom piece.  Use 1-1/2″ screws.  (If you did a pocket hole screw that in place now, too)

 Align and center your decorative brace underneath your box.  Pre-drill and screw in place from the inside of your box with 2 of your 2-1/2 screws.

 On the bottom-flat edge of your brace pre-drill and countersink for your last 2-1/2″ screw.  TIP: countersink head of screw enough to accept wood plug (if staining) or wood filler (if painting).

Ensure brace is centered and screw in place.

 Simplify your life and finish the inside of your newspaper box (don’t forget the top piece, too) before assembly.

 Clamp top board to box.  Screw and countersink for 1-1/2″ screws just as for the bottom.

Measure the bottom inner edge of your mailbox to determine the length and width of boards that will fit perfectly inside the metal lip.  My mailbox is a larger variety and measured 8″-wide and 20″-long.  For the lid on my mailbox to open I shortened the length to 18-1/2-inches and cut 2 pieces from my 1×4.  To get 8-inches across I used a spacer board in between.  To ensure my boards gave enough room for the mailbox in the back I used a small spacer board to keep everything 1/4-inch from my post (look at your mailbox to see if you need more space).  Clamp in place.

Complete top by finding
***INSTRUCTIONS FOR TOP***
-above-


If you are staining your post you’ll want to glue wood plugs into all your countersunk holes or fill in with filler for paint.

 Ready for paint!
PS – it was much easier to get around the surfaces without the mailbox slats on the top for the painting process.

Dig an 18-inch deep hole in the ground that will be wide enough to stabilize your post with cement.
PS- If you’re wondering how our mailbox is standing in a small little pot I’ve wondered the same thing!  I’m pretty sure the post is dug into the ground and the pot is 2-sections that hooks together around the post 🙂

 FLAGPOLE

Shovel or Post Digger

The flagpole is just like the mailbox post but without all the extras in the middle… and it’s taller.

Finish bottom by finding
***BOTTOM TRIM PIECE***
-above-


You should have everything like above except you need to cut your last top piece from your 1×6 that measures 4×4-inches.

Complete top by finding
***INSTRUCTIONS FOR TOP***
-above-

FINISHED!