I restored my Singer 15-31 machine and brainstormed a way to keep my new thread spools easy to access, tangle free and look nice too.
This is what I came up with. A box that sits on the ground with dowel pegs and a smaller shelf for smaller items as well as a place to put new spools that I add to my collection.
I love how it turned out! I can move it around easily, set it on a table and even hang on the wall if I want!
I used discounted 1×4 and 1×3 furring strips and dowels I had on hand – I estimate the total cost to be under $5.
Not pictured is a stick I found in the backyard for the bottom dowels (I ran out) and thinner dowels for the back of the top shelf.
Most likely you’ll customize your thread stand to fit the amount of thread you have and the spool sizes so I won’t give a detailed shopping and cutting list.
Basic supplies needed are:
-Drill + Bits to fit Dowel Sizes
-Nail Gun + Wood Glue
I designed this to fit under my sewing table. The finished measurements are is 28″ tall by 18″ wide.
The sides, top, bottom and shelf boards are cut from a 1×4 and the slanted boards for the dowels are from a 1×3.
Sand all your boards smooth. I used 150 and 220 grit – kind of rushing.
Do a dry fit of all your pieces. I placed my shelf roughly where I wanted it and eyeballed where the dowel boards look good. I tested the spacing by actually placing a cone of thread on each shelf to make sure I could take the thread on/off dowels easily and they wouldn’t hit into the shelf above. Make sure the angle of your dowel boards isn’t too much so that your shelf will want to tip over with the weight of thread hanging out too far.
Mark the general placement of each dowel board with a pencil on one of the inner sides. Clearly mark at least one of the angles.
Use your angle finder to match up with one of your angle marks and transfer to the other marks for dowel boards and make a mirror-copy on your other side piece.
Figure out dowel placement be setting out your thread cones on dowel boards. My bottom shelf was for larger/wider cones and fit 4 across and my other shelves fit 5.
Once you calculate placement transfer your marks to the center of your boards for cutting dowel holes.
I had 3 different dowel sizes to work with.
I didn’t make through cuts because I like to drill a screw it from behind to give the dowels extra strength (I have a toddler and 3 rowdy boys).
Once my holes were drilled I did a smaller hole in the center of each for my screw placement.
Butter hole and dowel with glue and tap with a mallet.
I also made holes for smaller dowels to keep thread from falling off my shelf. I made the dowels 1/2″-wider than my shelf, so drilled the holes on each end just over 1/4″ deep.
Glue and nail outer box pieces together with dowels inserted in holes.
Before nailing my shelf and dowel boards on I wanted to do one last fit to make sure everything had clearance and I like the angles. I used a clamp to keep tension.
I nailed shelves in place with nailer and went back and hammered in larger nails (I like the look but also for strength since I didn’t use glue).
Fill any imperfections with filler and give a final sanding before staining/painting. I used the same finish I used on the table stand top to tie it all together.
I used a velcro strap to attach my organizer to my sewing stand and it feels secure!
Click here for instructions to make this thread organizer.